Can X-rays reveal how sustainable textile fibres are formed?

Researchers from Tree to Textile and RISE Research Institutes of Sweden used synchrotron X-ray scattering to follow cellulose dissolution in real time. The results provide new knowledge that can help optimise production processes and support the development of more sustainable textile fibres.

The textile industry needs more sustainable alternatives to cotton and fossil-based synthetic fibres. Tree to Textile has developed a cellulose-based textile fibre produced through an environmentally conscious process and is also investigating cellulose from agricultural residues and recycled materials.

A critical step in fibre production is cellulose dissolution. The raw material strongly influences how the cellulose behaves, but the process takes place within minutes and is difficult to study using conventional methods. Better understanding is needed to improve process efficiency and fibre quality.

Joint Efforts, Shared Results

The project brought together Tree to Textile (TTT) and RISE Research Institutes of Sweden. Through the BEAMS for Industry programme, the team gained access to the P62 beamline at PETRA III, part of DESY in Hamburg, Germany.

Researchers worked closely with beamline experts to develop an experimental setup capable of monitoring cellulose dissolution under conditions relevant to industrial production.

“It has been incredible to come here and see how such a large facility actually works. I feel that I have gained a better understanding of what types of experiments that are possible, what questions could be answered, and I will take that with me in my further work” Åsa Östlund, TreeToTextile

A new lens on cellulose dissolution

The project combined Small-Angle X-ray Scattering (SAXS) and Wide-Angle X-ray Scattering (WAXS), allowing researchers to study material structures at different scales simultaneously.

SAXS provided information about larger nanoscale structures, such as swelling and aggregation, while WAXS tracked changes in cellulose crystallinity at the atomic level. The intense synchrotron X-ray beam made it possible to capture rapid structural changes in real time during controlled cooling and heating cycles.

Key findings and scientific insights

The measurements showed that SAXS could track the initial swelling of cellulose, the dissolution process and the final state of the solution. At the same time, WAXS revealed how the crystalline regions of cellulose gradually broke down.

Importantly, some samples appeared fully dissolved when examined with WAXS alone. However, the simultaneous SAXS measurements revealed remaining aggregates and gel-like structures. This showed that neither technique alone provides the full picture, while the combination delivers a much deeper understanding of the process.

The study also demonstrated how different cellulose sources and solvents influence dissolution behaviour.

From insight to innovation

The results provide valuable knowledge for Tree to Textile as it scales up production of sustainable textile fibres. A better understanding of cellulose dissolution can help optimise processing conditions, improve fibre quality and support the use of alternative renewable raw materials.

The project also highlights the value of synchrotron-based X-ray techniques for industrial process development. By revealing what happens during dissolution in real time, researchers can make better-informed decisions and accelerate innovation.

Conclusion

For the first time, combined SAXS and WAXS measurements provided a detailed real-time view of cellulose dissolution. The knowledge gained will support future process development and strengthen the transition towards more sustainable textile production.

This work was made possible through BEAMS for Industry.